Poland
Where to Stay in Wrocław
Wrocław (formerly the German city of Breslau) is Poland's fourth-largest city and the historic capital of Lower Silesia, built where the Oder River splits into a dozen channels and islands. That layout gives it more bridges than almost any city in Europe outside Venice, Amsterdam, St. Petersburg, and Hamburg. Its rebuilt Rynek (Market Square) is one of the largest medieval squares on the continent, ringed by Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque merchant houses centered on the pinnacled Old Town Hall. A short walk north across the Oder, Ostrów Tumski — Cathedral Island — is where the city began over a thousand years ago, and its surviving gas lamps are still lit by hand every evening by a working lamplighter.
Wrocław spent centuries as a German city before its population was almost entirely replaced after 1945, when the war-shattered Breslau became Polish Wrocław and was resettled largely by people displaced from formerly Polish territory further east — a history the city is unusually open about telling. What's easy to miss walking the reconstructed streets today is how much sits within a few minutes of each other here: the University of Wrocław's Baroque Aula Leopoldina, Max Berg's pioneering early-concrete Centennial Hall, and hundreds of small bronze dwarf statues scattered around the city — a legacy of a 1980s anti-communist street art movement that's since become one of Wrocław's best-known quirks.