The ghats of Varanasi lit up at dusk along the Ganges, with the spire of a riverside temple rising above the crowds

Anil Kumar Mahakur / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

India

Where to Stay in Varanasi

Varanasi is a city built along the Ganges' west bank, where more than 80 stone ghats step down to the river and life — bathing, cremation, prayer, laundry, festivals — plays out on them from before sunrise to after dark. Hindus consider it one of the holiest places to visit, bathe in the river, or be cremated, and it's also one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities. Most visitors come for the same ritual: a sunrise boat ride past the ghats, followed by an evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat for the nightly Ganga Aarti, a choreographed fire ceremony performed by priests on a riverside platform. The old city behind the ghats is a maze of narrow lanes, shrines, and silk shops, with the gold-spired Kashi Vishwanath Temple at its center.

Quick facts

Best time to visit
Visit October through March, when days are mild and comfortable for walking the ghats. April to June is very hot, often above 40°C, and the monsoon (July–September) can flood the lower ghats and make riverside lanes impassable.
Renting a car
Skip a rental car entirely — the ghats and old city lanes are pedestrian-only or too narrow for a car, and auto-rickshaws, cycle-rickshaws, and boats cover every trip a visitor needs to make.

Where to stay

Compare neighborhoods

AreaBest forAdvantageTrade-off
Dashashwamedh GhatArchitecture loversPuts you inside Varanasi's main event — the Ganga Aarti, the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, and the old city's markets are all a walk away.Dense crowds and narrow lanes make it louder and more chaotic than a calmer base like Assi Ghat.
Assi GhatBudget travelersA calmer, more walkable base with its own riverfront and easier access for anyone who finds the old city's crowds overwhelming.A rickshaw or boat ride away from the main Ganga Aarti and Kashi Vishwanath Temple rather than a walk.

Our picks for Varanasi

A handful of editorial calls across every neighborhood above, not just the highest star rating — see each hotel's own card further down for the full case for and against it.

A couple of hotels in Dashashwamedh Ghat

Dashashwamedh Ghat is the top-recommended area to stay in Varanasi.

Rana Mahal - a Boutique Place

★★★★
  • 🏛️ Best for architecture & design

Our take A compact, characterful boutique haveli right on the ghats — a good middle ground between Varanasi's biggest heritage palaces and its basic guesthouses.

Good for

  • Architecture lovers
  • Couples

Travelers who want a smaller, design-led heritage stay directly on the ghats, at a lower price point than the area's full-scale palace hotels.

Why we like it

  • River-view balconies in many rooms, a rare feature this close to the water in Varanasi
  • Rooftop terrace with live music and massage services
  • A genuine converted haveli rather than a purpose-built hotel styled to look historic

What to know

  • A small property with only a handful of rooms, so it books up quickly in peak season (October–March)
  • Some parts of the property have been under ongoing finishing work in recent seasons — worth checking current status before booking if that matters to you
Check availability on Booking.com

BrijRama Palace, Varanasi

★★★★★
  • ✨ Best luxury
  • 📍 Best location

Our take The most distinctive place to stay on Varanasi's ghats — a real 18th-century palace on the water, with the boat arrival and rooftop views to match the setting.

Good for

  • Luxury travelers
  • Couples

Travelers who want to be inside Varanasi's most iconic riverside setting, with genuine heritage architecture and full-service comfort.

Why we like it

  • Sits directly on its own ghat overlooking the Ganges, with a private boat for check-in and check-out rather than a walk through crowded lanes
  • Rooftop terrace and dining rooms with wide river views, plus daily complimentary yoga sessions and hi-tea
  • Original 18th-century architecture throughout, not a modern build styled to look historic

What to know

  • Priced at the top of this guide — a splurge stay rather than a budget alternative
  • Only vegetarian food and no alcohol are served on-site, in keeping with the ghat-side, riverfront setting
  • The heritage layout and ghat-side access mean the property isn't easily accessible for guests with mobility limitations
Check availability on Booking.com

Useful travel information

India uses the rupee. The ghats and old city lanes are walkable but narrow and stepped, so leave the car behind once you're near the river — auto-rickshaws and cycle-rickshaws cover everything else. Sunrise boat rides are usually booked the evening before through your hotel or directly at the ghats.

Tips

  • Book a sunrise boat ride the evening before — boatmen gather at the main ghats from around 5:30am, before the heat and crowds build.
  • Arrive at Dashashwamedh Ghat at least 45 minutes before the evening Ganga Aarti (usually around 7pm) to find a seat on the steps rather than watching from the back of the crowd.
  • Dress modestly and expect to remove your shoes at temple entrances; non-Hindus are not permitted inside the Kashi Vishwanath Temple's inner sanctum.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do I need in Varanasi?
Two to three days covers a sunrise boat ride, the old city and Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the evening Ganga Aarti, and a half-day trip out to Sarnath.
Where should first-time visitors stay in Varanasi?
A riverside hotel or haveli directly on the ghats near Dashashwamedh puts you inside the main sights and the evening Aarti; Assi Ghat, a short walk or rickshaw ride south, is calmer and less crowded, with easy access to its own ghat and a more relaxed pace.