Hungary
Where to Stay in Szentendre
Szentendre is a small town on the Danube just north of Budapest, known for its Baroque and Serbian Orthodox architecture, its narrow cobbled streets, and its long history as a Hungarian art colony. The whole visitable core sits within walking distance of the triangular Fő tér, the main square, where the 1763 Plague Cross stands surrounded by pastel-colored merchant houses and the yellow tower of the Blagoveštenska Serbian Orthodox church.
Szentendre's Serbian character comes from waves of refugees who settled here fleeing Ottoman advances from the late 17th century onward, and several of the town's Baroque churches are still Serbian Orthodox rather than Catholic. Hungarian painters displaced from Nagybánya by the post-WWI border changes arrived in 1926 and formally established the town's art colony at a permanent site in 1929, and that legacy still shapes the town — a dozen or so small museums cover ceramics, marzipan, and the work of painters connected to the colony. The Danube promenade and a handful of pedestrianized lanes running off Fő tér make the whole center walkable in well under an hour, which is part of why it works equally well as a half-day stop from Budapest or a slower overnight base.